EXCLUSIVE! Vogue Police | Ujjawal Dubey: ‘Revival of conventional weaves is a strong motion

Ujjawal Dubey believes that revival of conventional weaves is a strong motion that reconnects us with our cultural heritage. Dubey believes in going native with style whether or not its sourcing materials or honouring craftsmanship.

On the Lakme Vogue Week this yr, his newest assortment, TWO-FACED, marked a decade of Antar-Agni and explores the duality inside every certainly one of us. It was a deep dive into the contrasts that outline human nature—construction versus fluidity, custom versus modernity.
Dubey divided the gathering into three chapters: Render, Wander, and Give up, every reflecting completely different sides of the human expertise. From sharply structured silhouettes to minimalist drapes, the gathering represents a journey by complexity, permitting us to embrace the various faces we put on in life.

Edited excerpts from the interview:

What’s your tackle
revival of weaves?
The revival of conventional weaves is a strong motion that reconnects us with our cultural heritage. At Antar-Agni, we now have at all times believed in balancing custom with innovation. Whereas our designs lean in direction of modern kinds, the essence of craft and the integrity of handwoven materials stay central. Reviving these weaves isn’t nearly aesthetics; it’s about preserving our artisans’ legacy, offering them with sustainable livelihoods, and guaranteeing these age-old strategies proceed to evolve and flourish in trendy style.

How native are we getting with regards to style?
Vogue is turning into more and more native, and I believe that’s an vital shift. Whether or not it’s by the supplies we supply or the craftsmanship we honour, the highlight is firmly on indigenous strategies and regional artisans. At Antar-Agni, we regularly draw from Indian craftsmanship, mixing it with trendy silhouettes to create one thing that feels each acquainted and new. The fantastic thing about going native is that it permits us to rejoice authenticity and sustainability in a world context.

What do it’s important to say in regards to the enterprise of
style? Has it gotten any higher now that the pandemic is over and issues are wanting up within the final two-three years?

The style trade has actually seen a rebound post-pandemic, but it surely’s not with out its challenges. The shift in shopper behaviour has been important, with extra emphasis on acutely aware consumption and value-driven purchases. I consider the trade is transferring in direction of extra sustainable and aware enterprise practices. There’s a requirement for high quality over amount now, and types are adapting. At Antar-Agni, we’ve stayed true to our ethos, specializing in creating timeless, well-crafted items that resonate past seasons. That stated, the enterprise facet is enhancing, however the secret is to adapt to this altering panorama whereas remaining genuine.

What’s your tackle acutely aware consumption?
Acutely aware consumption isn’t just a development; it’s a necessity. It’s about making intentional decisions—whether or not as designers or shoppers. For us, it’s at all times been about creating items which have longevity, that aren’t certain by traits however will be worn and re-worn in varied methods. It’s additionally about being aware of the supplies we use, the processes we make use of, and the folks behind the scenes. I consider style has a accountability to maneuver past quick cycles and concentrate on sustainability, sturdiness, and craftsmanship.

Vogue vs Model, what’s your desire and the way is it completely different?
I lean extra in direction of fashion as a result of it’s private and enduring. Vogue is ever-changing—it’s seasonal, it’s cyclical. However fashion is an expression of who you might be, it transcends time. For me, style is a device that helps form fashion, however fashion is the essence. It’s much less about following traits and extra about defining what speaks to you individually, what displays your inside self.

Who’s your favorite fashion icon from Bollywood and Hollywood? And the way would you want to decorate him/her up?

In Bollywood, I’ve to say Jackie Shroff. His easy cool and rugged appeal have at all times stood out to me. There’s one thing about his pure, understated fashion that feels genuine and timeless.

As for Hollywood, Marlon Brando is an icon I actually admire. His skill to mix uncooked masculinity with a contact of class makes his fashion unforgettable. If I have been to decorate them up, I’d maintain their traditional essence however add a contemporary edge—maybe layering a structured jacket with fluid drapes for Jackie, and for Brando, a smooth, minimal trench that captures his iconic rugged-meets-refined enchantment.